Delicious, nutritious burgers hit the spot whether you have new baby teeth or used geezer choppers. Burgers date back to ancient Egypt, where they certainly satisfied the undocumented ethnics who erected the pyramids and the sphinx. Burgers helped Genghis and Kublai Khan’s Tartar Calvary conquer the world because they could eat on the run while raping and pillaging. Steak Tartare was named after them.
Two popular theatre district burger emporiums, Shake Shack and 5Napkin Burger, were also migratory, and arrived in the theatre district from outlying origins. Shake Shack, born in 2004 in Madison Square Park, demonstrates owner Danny Meyer’s culinary brio. There are now 14 in the US and two in the Middle East, in Dubai and Kuwait City, and more on the way. In 2010, our Shake Shack appeared on 9th Avenue and was hard to miss thanks to endless lines always snaking down the sidewalk along the façade. During my first visit there several years ago, after waiting in line, I ordered a rare hamburger, waited some more and was served one that was well done (argghh!!) During my most recent visit, I cased the joint, arrived at 3:15pm on a rainy Matinee Wednesday when waits were minimal. An electronic gizmo lit up when my order was ready. Hurrah! My Smoke Shack cheeseburger was cooked as ordered, rare, moist, if a tad salty, topped with a slice of crisp, thick Nimon Ranch all-natural apple wood smoked bacon on a soft roll swathed with a tangy mayonnaise, sprinkled with perky chopped cherry pepper bits and placed in a translucent sandwich bag. The burger was small, 4-5 ounces, so if you have a man-sized appetite, order a double. Good? Yes, but not the stuff that dreams are made of. The accompanying obviously freshly crinkle-cut artificial trans-fat-free Yukon Gold fries may have been mighty healthy, but didn’t knock me out either. Who knew I was an artificial trans-fat freak? A Diabetes specialist looking for patients must have created the gunky and overly sweet Fair Shake blend of vanilla frozen custard and organic Arabica Fair Trade Coffee.
Shake Shack folks are worthy people who use wind farm energy, compost their food waste and give money to Broadway Cares, but I prefer the huge, 10-ounce incredibly succulent burgers at 5 Napkin Burger a few blocks northwest. Health ain’t everything.
After I tasted my first Five Napkin Burger at Nice Matin, I found myself daydreaming about it again and again, so you can imagine my delight when I discovered that the Nice Matin owners had established a theatre district restaurant named in 5Napkin Burgers honor. Now there are seven. Wowwie!!! Last week, my 5N cheeseburger and fries consisted of a 10-ounce perfectly rare and juicy steakburger topped with a slice of slightly sharp cheese, raw onion, lettuce and a beautiful big really red slice of tomato and 5N aioli spread on sesame seeded brioche roll with a cupful of painfully skinny French Fries made fresh every day by three kitchen workers. The hamburger was sensational, the fries fresh but unimpressive, which forced me to steal a significant chunk of my dining companion’s unbelievably flavorful chopped lamb burger served medium rare, which sat atop a bowl of freshly chopped greens, endive, tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers, green beans, red onion, radishes, celery, blue cheese, pickled onions and red wine vinaigrette with a dollop of 5N rosemary aioli. This burger salad is a boon for carb avoiders. There are actually 11 burgers to choose from, including those made with Italian Turkey, Ahi Tuna, Veggie and the wonder of wonders Lamb Kofta. One suggestion – unless you like skinny, dry fries, request salad instead.
One downside here is the wait for a table, but you can always eat at the bar. The second problem is the noise level in the dining room, which can make you wish you were deaf, so if the weather is clement keep your eye out for an outside table, where you feel you’re on the boardwalk and can watch the passing parade. Electronic gizmos here also guard your place in line. We grabbed an empty outside table, gave the gizmo back to the hostess and since it wasn’t terribly crowded that night, no one made a fuss. As of now, there are seven 5Napkin Burgers including those in Boston and Miami Beach.
Incidentally, both Shake Shack and 5N Burger will pack take-out orders. Shake Shacks individual meat blend is provided by the King of Butchers, Pat LaFrieda. 5N Burger’s meat was formerly provided by LaFrieda, but not at the present time.
The double-burger and fries at Shake Shack cost $9.65 and the 5Napkin Cheeseburger and fries cost $13.95. Is its difference worth the difference? I think so. I prefer to sit at a table, be served by a charming waitress, eat from a plate rather than a wrapper, wipe my mouth with a cloth napkin, drink from a glass and eat with real utensils including a steak knife to cut my huge burger into chunks that actually fit into my mouth.
Shake Shack: 691 Eighth Avenue @44th St. 646-435-0135
5Napkin Burger 630 Ninth Avenue @ 45th St. 212-757-2277
Posted by Myra Chanin
on September 21, 2012. Filed under FAMILY,Food and Drink,NEWS,Times Square Community.
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